Day 15 Trans-Labrador Highway Part II (or how we almost got eaten by a bear)

When we initially planned this trip, Labrador was just a way to connect points A and B along with adding a little non-paved adventure. What an experience Labrador has turned out to be! It is both gorgeous and wild. And I can’t imagine this trip without it. The TLH should be fully paved by 2021. If you are thinking of a driving trip to Newfoundland (and I highly recommend it), pass through Labrador on the way. It is mountainous from East to West, but the terrain and forrests change considerably. It is full of rocks, rivers, bogs, and lakes. The few pictures I’ve taken just don’t do it justice.

The day started out with clear blue skies. The western portion of the TLH is entirely paved and silky smooth. It is still very remote with no services between the towns. We left Happy Valley-Goose Bay and made the 184 miles to Churchill Falls, refueled, and ran another 160 to Labrador City. It is difficult to plan a full day of riding when the only stops are hundreds of miles apart. You either end up with a short day or a very long day.

We rode past the brook above and I circled back for a picture. Don and I both got off the bikes. I was down on one knee using the guardrail to steady the camera while Don walked just off the road. I then walked to the other side and was standing by the opposite guardrail and noticed a bush shaking down the bank directly below me. About the time I thought this might not be good, a black bear strolls out and starts up the bank. I immediately ducked and went running across the road yelling at Don to get to the bikes. The bear’s head popped over the bank about the time we were remounting. He poked his head under the guardrail, looked at us for a few seconds, then calmly turned and went back down the bank. This was our third bear sighting as one crossed the road in front of us yesterday in addition to the one in New Brunswick. But being on foot and less than 20 feet from a wild black bear is too close!

Labrador retrievers do not come from Labrador. The breed originated in Newfoundland in the 1500’s. Small water dogs were breed with Newfoundlands to create the Saint John’s Water Dog. They were imported to England from Newfoundland in the 1800’s by the Earl of Malmesbury. Both the Earl and the Duke referred to to them as their “Labrador Dogs”.